Pas de Doylo!

Yesterday i went down LPT only to find that Pas de had a wet hold, gutted. Temps were good, conditions have started to get fresh in these parts. In the end i did the 7a and 7a+ to the right of Boardwalk, pretty good routes. Today i went back with Dicky Simpson. The hold had dried, things were feeling good as i put the clips in. Managed the top in two sections. First redpoint i hit the sloper at the end but couldn't close it up. Second time up i was feeling stressed, the RPs were racking up on this one now, i needed closure. So i pulled my finger out! Rocking over to the last pinch i was gripped, half expecting to get spat off. But i didn't and i climbed up the juggy flake to victory. Get in! 3rd/4th ascent?
As for the grade i had decided to just take the guide grade of 8a+, i didn't want to be known as an upgrader. But today after Simpson tried it i changed my mind. Out of Pete, Holger, Ioan, Simpson and Danny none of them could even do all the moves nevermind attempt it from the deck. Zeke which most men take 8b for took 2 days, this took 9. You do the math. Simpson who has done 8c recently said for him it could be 8b+ (he's shorter than me). Anyway i'm happy that it is a good route and hopefully it should get more attention. From Melancholie next year.....