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Wednesday, 30 September 2009


Watched this vid of Ondra and Patxi competing this morning:

Ondra is seriously swift, much quicker than Patxi. Ondra advocates minimal shakeouts and just climbing quickly. I have been thinking about this, less time on the rock must mean less pump! I think speeding up a little could do a lot of people some good, i know i am pretty slow in general. I feel like i'll make mistakes if i go to fast, especially on tricky ground. On the other hand though Patxi is a skoda in comparison to Ondra and he still does alright (but then he can hang on forever!). Maybe fast on some sections of a climb then slow it down for the important bits. Pete Robins flew up Liquid Ambar in less than 2 minutes i think, the footage looks sped up! I think i chalk up to much at crucial moments too, this is also something to look at. I started looking through my footage keen to analyse some speed climbing. I found this footage of Cave Life, Mule pounds the life out of the rock whereas Danny is a snail in comparison. Danny is still on the wobbly jug when Mule is on the crux. My ten stone (twas a few years ago- bad news!) frame is somewhere in the middle! Makes for interesting viewing i think. Of course Danny still gets the furthest but then he is the Cave beast:

Yesterday was wet so we bagged climbing outside and trained. Getting sick of green tea but its for a good cause, will soon be at my fighting weight and my fitness is going up with every Mill sesh.

1 comment:

Jasper said...

Wow it's true. Johanna Ernst beat Patxi on that route. Amazing.