BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday, 18 May 2010

Malc crushes LPT

Had a long day in the Cave today. Malc and Mark were back on the Orme. We bouldered, i had more redpoints on Broken Sam, no cigar but very good training! Then i went down LPT with the boys to give Malc some beta on Pas de Deux. First go up he experimented with the moves a bit, looked very solid when he did them. No surprise there. He skipped a move at the end by going off the intermediate with his foot low to the pinch rather than going again to the last sloper. Very interesting method, i wanted to try it. A bit later he crushed it first redpoint, to be fair he absolutely pissed it. Check the footage (these holds aren't jugs by the way just in case you wondered):

When he got down i asked what grade he thought it was, i kind of knew what was coming. He said probably 8a+ but he hadn't tried my beta and he did confess to liking basic climbing and small pinches. No surprise there either! I still think it needs a few more actual ascents to clear up the grade. I found it hard but it doesn't mean its 8b. He then did Statement, he had tried this the other day and fell on the flash and on his first redpoint. Think he thought it was tricky. I went back to the cave for another redpoint but saw Malc onsight Over the Moon Direct from the road. Not a bad day. There was a dead fox in split infinity so Fatneck lobbed it over the wall before to stop it stinking the orme out. Also a good effort. I wouldn't have wanted to pick it up!


Adam Lincoln said...

Shit the bed

lore said...

ah! malc with long hair!!!
why does the vid only show the 6a+ top bit of the route?