BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Monday, 10 May 2010

Old Projects

Am feeling knackered after 5 days on. Things are on the up though, i can feel things starting to happen. Went back down LPT on Sunday, this time to try Melancopout again with a view into linking it into the top of Mussel Beach. I've wanted to do this for years but have never had the confidence to get back on it such is the crimpy nature of Melancholie. Also i've never done the crux of MB particularly well so when you can't do the start and you find the end hard it is not a recipe for success. Getting through Mel start the other day gave me the confidence however and i was keen to try MB again. I dogged up and sorted the moves then had a redpoint. Err, well i hadn't sorted the moves enough and i fucked up my feet on the redpoint crux turning the lip on Mussel. Was really happy to get there though. Did the Mel start a lot easier though which was satisfying and quite important and i'm not quite fit enough to get much back on the BB jug. I almost did this climb in 2005 so will be nice to tick it. LPT is definitely entering the link up age. Its got a long way to go to catch up with the tor, Malham and Kilsney but there are some brilliant link up routes to do. Not forgetting the last two independent lines either, what a crag. Fifth day on was spent in the Cave, wasn't feeling sprightly enough for Broken Heart/TC so got on another old proj, Broken Heart/Sams Finish. Have been trying this sporadically for over a year. I think it could possibly be the worlds hardest link up. But it shouldn't be!!! But it is!!!! Ahhhhh. Anyway fell off the last move once more going up to the sidepull. Will be a happy man when i do this one.
Pic of me downstairs courtesy of Dave P:

5 comments:

PeteSheridan9987 said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Dave Redpath said...

Wow, quite a start to earn the proper tick for Mussel Beach! 8a+?

Doylo said...

yes hard 8a+ it will be i think, get a good rest on Bad Boy.

Tommy said...

I have to say, I whole heartedly agree with PeteSheridan above. You really are the most attractive young man I have ever met.

Doylo said...

pete sheridan is a legend