BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Monday, 14 June 2010

What a Difference a Week Makes

Roll back the clock a week last Saturday i was on the roof with Nodder and Jack. Me and Dave were seiging the moves, doing most of them but it felt nails (i.e. 8b+, 30 day affair!). The last boulder problem was hard however you did it, with my method involving a very powerful crimp move. This was right at the end of the roof section, i guess like usual in these situations i tricked myself into thinking it would get easier whereas in reality the beta was to hard for the position. Fast forward a week and i've just fallen off the last hard move to a jug, hang on, how has that happened????? Never has something felt so much easier in the space of 3 sessions. And thats why this route will always have a special place in my heart, the climbing is amazing and when i finally worked it out it just clicked. I love everything about this route, even the top out through the top of the cave, tis a great summit. Yesterday was rainy and humid and far too greasy so just put in some linkage. The main issue i now have with this route is that i have to drag one of the holds and this has already cut my finger, i can't do it with tape cos it slips so i'm gonna have to try some superglue on the wound. Hopefully this will sort it.