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Thursday, 24 June 2010

Temple Of Gloom

Headed back to the roof today with Tony, as i said in my previous post mastering the mental side of redpointing is of paramount importance when climbing at your limit. I had held up pretty well on this project but was finally starting to feel a bit stressed with the experience. I think this can happen to anyone after 10 days. Things were not helped when on my first two goes today i fell off the first fb7a+ boulder problem twice, not a positive sign. I couldn't wish myself to the top of this route, i had to climb it, it was time to put in a big effort. I grunted through the start on my next go and was soon at the final fb7a boulder sequence. I had studied the footage this morning and knew what angle my heel had to be at to give myself the best chance. On previous efforts i had sat on my heel more, meaning the hold looked closer but in reality was harder to get the height needed. This time i executed the move perfectly, i got the jug clipped and psyched myself for the final falloffable move. The move to the ledge, jug to jug, surely i wouldn't fall here! I made sure i didn't drop it with a final power grunt. I was there sitting on the ledge. Looking up at the final 9 metres of headwall i prayed for no fuck ups. I peeled all the tape off my fingers with my teeth so i would have maximum friction on the holds. I wiped my feet on my trousers and set off psyched but concentrating hard. Before i knew it i was in the sunshine and the moment that i had desired was here. After my first 4 forays on this line i never thought it would go so quick if at all. And thats why it was such a cool experience! Cheers to all the belayers and to Nodder for the name. As for the grade well like with any FA it is a stab in the dark, myself and Dyer reckon it probably is 8b. It might turn out to be 8a+, time will tell. I'm really not sure either way and am not that fussed either. Anyway it might get its 2nd ascent tonight, come on Neil!!!!
Some footage:

7 comments:

Aez said...

Had a look at this when I was at the Cave yesterday evening, looks sick. Good stuff.

Dave said...

Brilliant Stuff man! Really happy for you - awesome FA!

Doylo said...

cheers

uptown said...

Well done Chris, great resolve.

Doylo said...

Cheers Andy, yeh come on down i'll give you the tour....

pascal said...

you da man!

黃允妏 said...

知識可以傳授,智慧卻不行。每個人必須成為他自己。......................................................................