Temple Of Gloom

Headed back to the roof today with Tony, as i said in my previous post mastering the mental side of redpointing is of paramount importance when climbing at your limit. I had held up pretty well on this project but was finally starting to feel a bit stressed with the experience. I think this can happen to anyone after 10 days. Things were not helped when on my first two goes today i fell off the first fb7a+ boulder problem twice, not a positive sign. I couldn't wish myself to the top of this route, i had to climb it, it was time to put in a big effort. I grunted through the start on my next go and was soon at the final fb7a boulder sequence. I had studied the footage this morning and knew what angle my heel had to be at to give myself the best chance. On previous efforts i had sat on my heel more, meaning the hold looked closer but in reality was harder to get the height needed. This time i executed the move perfectly, i got the jug clipped and psyched myself for the final falloffable move. The move to the ledge, jug to jug, surely i wouldn't fall here! I made sure i didn't drop it with a final power grunt. I was there sitting on the ledge. Looking up at the final 9 metres of headwall i prayed for no fuck ups. I peeled all the tape off my fingers with my teeth so i would have maximum friction on the holds. I wiped my feet on my trousers and set off psyched but concentrating hard. Before i knew it i was in the sunshine and the moment that i had desired was here. After my first 4 forays on this line i never thought it would go so quick if at all. And thats why it was such a cool experience! Cheers to all the belayers and to Nodder for the name. As for the grade well like with any FA it is a stab in the dark, myself and Dyer reckon it probably is 8b. It might turn out to be 8a+, time will tell. I'm really not sure either way and am not that fussed either. Anyway it might get its 2nd ascent tonight, come on Neil!!!!
Some footage: