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Sunday, 2 January 2011

I Tried to Go Climbing

I've thought about going climbing a few times recently. Almost met up with Nodder in the cave once or twice. The place has been a gopfest though and the you can't drive on the marine drive as the gate is shut. They must have shut it when the snow was here but i think its a bit cheeky keeping it shut considering people pay money for a season ticket. The cave will probably be too hard anyway.
Was thinking about what to try and do this year. I guess i'd really like to push my sport grade a little higher. I did Melanchollie (note correct spelling) in 2004 and haven't managed to do anything harder since. You can't beat progress! Unfortunately though there are not many 8b+'s to choose from in North Wales. LPT has The Walking Mussel and Wild Youth. The Walking Mussel is the most appealing option. I had a brief go on it in 2009. Its is basically a hard boulder sequence in the middle of the crag. Very nice crux involving a bony pinch and some undercuts. The route then finishes up the crack of Over the Moon. Now for anyone else trying TWM this probably wouldn't be an issue but i got totally shut down on the crack last year. I saw Smit do it with a different sequence though so should try that. So its a big IF! Got to get strong enough to crack the crux then work out the crack then link it all. I think its fair to say the odds are against me getting to this level but you might as well aim high! Its a good route thats the main thing and its usually pretty easy finding people to climb with at LPT.


Dave Redpath said...

Oh I want to try it too after looking at it last year. That boulder problem and heel toe rail bit is amazing!

Doylo said...

Great route!