BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Friday, 21 January 2011


I've been out every day this week in crag development mode. I feel very energized, it is definitely preferable to the sluggish slob syndrome that became me in december, not leaving the flat for 3 days at a time! I have been drilling, cleaning loose rock, chopping down brambles, inspecting new lines and climbing. Its been like a day job, no long lie ins, get up and get out. Caught up with this guy:

and this guy:

Wales very own P-Rob came to the crag today. I was keen to get him onboard as i was keen for someone with small hold techy credentials to do the slate-esque project i bolted last summer. After warming up Pete made the first flash of Three Degrees confirming that the cool jump is unecessary. It must be the worst thing for a first ascentionist when a beautiful sequence becomes redundant (not that i could pull on the crimp he used). Its even worse than having something downgraded (unless of course something is downgraded by two or more grades). As some consolation he didn't piss the big crux move after the hole. He kept coming up and down not wanting to blow it then comitted and puffed his cheeks and did it. He got the moves on the project but by the time he could of done it skin was lacking - one for another day. Norm squeezed in a two bolt newbie at about 6b. I managed one of my projects but not without a bit of a tussle. I really like the moves on this route, really good. Its called Shakin Stevens 7b+. Pete flashed the 2nd ascent. I keep forgetting its only January, shouldn't really be sport climbing nevermind doing first ascents. Its only just doable if theres no wind and even then its a bit chilly on the tips!


ianto said...

when you going to let loose the crag location,good effort on developement good to see you got your mojo back

Doylo said...

I guess when development has ceased! Strict parking instructions would need to be put out there too