Back in 2003 i went up to the Craftnant valley with the old king to go trad climbing. We got to the base of the cliff (can't remember name) and i was eyeing up a steep e2/3 cracky thing (Phoenix??). Truth be told though i couldn't really be arsed. It was cold and windy and my attention was caught by the nearby boulder field. We went for a mooch and it turned out to be quite a big boulderfield. It seemed to have some potential despite the many horrific landings. I returned with the Cattells to try the line that was to become Wonderwall. They did the moves before me (or course!) and were chomping at the bit to climb it but were holding back to allow me the first ascent. Talk about pressure! It was my pride and joy at the time although these days its not really what i look for (nice line but fucking sharp). I gave it a ridiculous grade of V7 (it was harder). We returned with Katzy who bagged Cruella (7b/+). Danny did Grasswind at 7c which is a very nice problem and one of the only good landings there. I returned a few more times and did a few more problems. Last year i took floppy Chris up there and he was jumping around like a kid in the sweet shop spotting hard lines. He started going up with Nodder and others and many of the remaining problems were polished off including these hard beauties:
Special K
My Own Private Idaho
So its seems that its a bit of a venue now with loads of problems. A video of mine has been on the Beardown Productions site for years but someone asked me about it today so i uploaded it to youtube. Along with Nodders vid of a few of the newbies here it is:
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2 comments:
Great footage chris ,i've said to you before get a decent camera and make a dvd alot of people could relate too it and would love to watch,i'll go halves with ya.
Ha cheers for the offer but you'd have to pay for 99.9% of it at the moment. I'm skint! I've had a few DVDs out in the past, holiday roadtrips etc... Not very slick but some funny moments
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