Ormesman of the Week: Dave and Chris Lyon, new route machines!

In the late 70s two local brothers Dave and Chris Lyon, hit the Orme new routing scene with a vengeance and continued Rowland Edwards' good work in the area. Dave in particular would put up new routes across the Ormes and would become the areas most prolific new router ever! The Lyon's left their mark on nearly every crag over the next 20 years. The brothers began development on Crinkle Crags and Wonderwall and scaled the walls of the Little Orme putting up new routes. Norman told me that he went to stay at their place one night and as soon as the clock struck 9 the TV went off and it was lights out for an early start. True professionals! They bucked the trend of development above the road and put up the first route on LPT, Twisting by the Pool E4. Despite adding another route Jacuzzi, Jive the crag was largely ignored for another year before things really kicked off in 84 Chris became disillusioned with the climbing scene but Dave continued to put up new routes throughout the 80s and this culminated in his ascent of Ocean of Emotion 7b+ on Detritus Wall. This went into the 92 Rockfax as the only 4 star route. If you can get it guano free this is a brilliant adventure sport climb. Dave still owns Lyon Sport in Llandudno.