BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Monday, 5 September 2011

Billy The Fish

True to my last post about craving bouldering (i'm not just copying Ondra, honest) i went to the pass on Sunday. My strategy was spot on. I waited all day for it to start raining then sat under Jerry's and Diesel Power in the monsoon. I felt quite strong though and did the move on Diesel Power i've never done. It's really hard and nasty but this problem's already appealed to me. I like trying the 90s problems from round here. There usually CJD or Higginson testpieces. I waited til it stopped raining then went to the Mill to finish off. Today me and Tommy were down the Diamond bright and early but were still behind Scotland's greatest Diamond connisieur Dave Redpath who is down for his annual trip. Tommy did Boat People and i went bolt to bolt on Never Get Out of The Boat, i was intrigued to try it as i've been watching people on it for 3 years. I sorted the moves and had a redpoint and fell getting the shake out jug before the last boulder problem. I concur with Jim that it is the best 8a in Wales (he says it's the best he's done in Britain). Its not visually the best 8a, it doesn't look that special compared to something like Statement but the climbing is superb. Pure power endurance and amazing moves - an 8a version of The Brute. I didn't get quite as high 2nd redpoint, my fitness was found wanting but i was satisfied with my first redpoint and it is quite complex so nice to get so high first go. The same nucleus of people are going to The Diamond whereas all the sad gits are still going to LPT, it baffles me really! I don't get it! And when are some strong people coming to try The Brute, come on lets be having you. Pete Harrison has extended the handline so you can now get into the crag 2 hours after high tide. This is extremely handy especially considering the short season. More beers for Pete please! We jumped ship to the Great Orme. I wanted to try an old project on the upper drive. I first tried it in 2003, at the time i thought it was one of the last projects and i was really keen to do a new route in the area. It takes the crozzly bulge between Gold n Delicious and Magical Ring. I tried it last year again with Panton and was convinced it was 8a. Part of the problem was that it was so painful on the crux you let go becuase your fingers were screaming. Today i twatted a few of the spikes off with a krab and suddenly hanging the holds became easier. I played around with the beta for a bit and finally got a way i was happy with. I got through the hard bulge in the rain but the easy ground just after it was now piss wet through. My hands and feet were on water as i tried to get my fingers to feel normal. Stupidly i hadn't done the finish on Magical Ring 7a+. I had done the route years ago but all i could remember was that there was a bony 6b move before the jugs. I hung out below the move getting ever more soaked and watching the top get ever more soaked. I had to act fast and managed to keep it together, luckily the very last moves after the tricky move were on massive holds. It was certainly very memorable and very nice to finish something i first tried so long ago. After Gorgy badgering me to name something Billy The Fish for years i think i will this time. I'll go for 7c+ gradewise but i can't see too many people being psyched for it. It looks cool but is a little gnarly but if i can do it the day after trying Diesel Power it can't be that nasty. Finished a long day off at Matt's. Yeeeeeeeeeeee

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