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Monday, 12 September 2011

Bowldro Gogledd Cymru

Back in uni North Wales bouldering was my main inspiration. The Northern Soul guides and the subsequent bouldering guide galvanised my psyche. I loved the varied nature of bouldering in the area and the many options for a good day out. As i did most the cool stuff i could do my psyche went off the boil a bit and i went on a bit of a downer with British bouldering as a whole. After a couple of years routing i'm really keen to get back into it and have earmarked a meaty list of problems to play on this winter. Some are definitely goers and some are very optimistic but i'm looking forward to getting out there. Currently the list includes: Flick of The Wrist, Diesel Power, Special K, Cruella, Nazgals Traverse, Love Pie, Wurzel Gunnage Stand, Will, 36 Chambers sit, Be Ruthless, Smackhead, Jerry's Problem, Main Vein, Lizard King, Sick happy, The Tusk, Lotus, Wierdo and Papa Big Lunch. Will be interesting to see how many of these babies i can tick off. The plan for the winter is to train like i never have before. The thing i care about most in climbing is my top end sport grade and i've been frustrated that this has stagnated for 7 years. Living round here to make a step up i need to get stronger. It is the most important thing. So i'm keen to hit the boards for an extended period and start campussing. This is something i've always been shit at. It's always been a major weakness and i really think developing that power will help me step up. I'm going to have to do something different if i want to be doing some good links on Liquid Ambar! The only way i can maintain psyche is by continuing to climb outside and get ticks. I can't just lock myself on the board like Nodder and Gorgy. Anyway hopefully my body and mind will allow me to stick to the plan, be like Jerry.
I have been dieting hard for my Hole proj, today was the first day on it for over a week and i was hoping for a breakthrough. It wasn't to be as the start was as hard and awkward as ever. i did do a bigger link on the end and could feel the weight loss kicking in. The start involves getting a shit three finger drag for your right hand, camming your foot in a hole and reaching left via some really wide moves into the hole. Its strength, technique and body position rolled into 3 go again moves. I'm starting to run out of ideas on it. I know i can do it because i got to the lip pre injury. I think some specific training is in order, i'm going to do some 3 finger deadhanging on my bit of wood. Grrr! I tried Pete's route First Round, First Second. I bolted the line but didn't feel like i would ever do it. It was good to try it with the beta. It basically boils down to 2 hand moves and 2 foot moves. The hand moves i could do ok by keeping my feet low but moving my feet was the desperate bit. With 2% more finger power i think i could do it. Its an inspiring style, short, just off vertical and bony. It's probably a tricky Font 7c sequence i'd say. Pete did the 2nd ascent of my 8a The Madness Reigns and also did the 7c's Meatsville Arizona and Strawberries Man. Today was a mint climbing day in North Wales. Jordan chose a great day to make a solo trip from Lancashire and came away with the 2nd ascent of The Brute. "Made it look like 7a+" was Pete Harrison's comment. Ahh to be fit. Finally a big well done to Jimmy Big Guns who finally came out the other side on his seige of Melanchollie. I think he first tried it in 2009 so it's been a while in coming. Great effort and a great first 8b!

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