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Thursday, 15 September 2011

Sexy Little Knee

The good weather continues, i was losing the will with the rain but this weeks been very nice thank you very much. I headed to the recently unbanned hanging rock just past Mayfair Wall this morning to catch up with Tony. He was bolting up two very old forgotten routes, Wall of Goutes and Gripper Clipper. The rest of the crag was bolted up recently. The routes look very good actually. I bolted a new line through the main roof. A very nice looking boulder problem route on excellent rock. It will be the most roadside hard route in North Wales and looks pretty despy actually. Hope i can do it!
We removed a few loose blocks from above the crag. Its quite scary to prise a big block away with your little finger. This kind of work definitely makes the marine drive safer for everyone that uses it. If us climbers didn't clear loose rock they would eventually come down, probably in a rainstorm and they are potentially lethal. Anyway that's enough blowing climbers trumpets for now.
I tootled on down to the cave pleased with my mornings work. Nodder, Jack The Ratt and Ducko were getting involved. I felt light and bouncy, my performance is definitely elevated at the moment. I've had a few of these moments over the years and the lesson i've learnt is to strike while the irons hot as they don't last forever! The priorities are my new routes and Cave 8a+s. I'm on redpoint on The Wire now and got the undercut twice today falling just shy of the jugs. I'm sure i'll fall off Clever Beaver pumped stupid when i get there. It's a brilliant bit of power endurance climbing and it feels good to climb well on a hard problem. Mills turned up and we headed down Pigeon's. It was nice and dry but still and muggy so not mint. I was well excited to get on my project feeling strong. I hadn't tried it for ages. The moves felt easier straight away and my original beta seemed about right. The route is about 7b+ to some undercuts and it's pretty intense to the top from there. I was still finding two fingery moves pretty hard and deep down i was thinking 8b and pretty hard on the link. The important thing is to keep an open mind and i wedged my knee against the slopey ramp feature. I had the worst kneebarring trousers on but instantly i knew that it would work as my leg was the right size. It dawned on me that the knee might work for the next move too and sure enough it seemed too. I'm pretty sure this will feel solid with my jeans and kneepad and all of a sudden the routes seems do-able. I need to do it before winter as the top does seep. I'm sceptical about Pete's 7c grade for the right hand route. It looks harder and Mills said he belayed Kristian Klemmow on it in the 90s. He was crushing 7c's back then. 3 finger deadhangs now.

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