BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday, 13 September 2011

Praise the Hurricane

Phew i'm at risk of spreading myself too thin at the mo. I want to climb everything, stamina down the Diamond, hard new route projects, blocs in the hills, PE in the cave. Need to take a deep breath and concentrate on the new routes. Me and Jimmy went to climb down Pigeon's today. The remnants of the Atlantic hurricane has made everything so mint round here. It was a one in 500 day down Pigeon's. Definitely the most mint conditions i've ever seen down there. Unfortunately it was approaching high tide, the sea was proper choppy and it was a high tide so we had to bail. Jim had a quick go on Stiff extension and i warmed up on Koo. Tony was on the Orme re equipping Paradise 6c amongst other things. There's been lots of action on the Upper Drive as Tony and co are trying to get the place sorted for the guide. I headed back to the Cave to meet Nodder, we warmed up in Split. I managed Belpig 7c for the first time, another nemisis despatched. I never thought i'd ever do that one. I kicked my cave season off and felt good despite feeling worked. I re-worked Pilgrim with the heel (superior beta) method and managed to get into RA. I also did the first move of Broken Heart from the start of The Wire which i was chuffed with also. I don't know which one to try first now! When i was hanging on The Diamond the other day i got thinking about some of the sport routes round here that i've been on and where i'd rank them in their respective grade in percentage terms. With 1% being low in the grade and 99% being top. Here we go (my opinions obviously!):

Boat People 80%
Bad Boy 90% (for tallies)
Magic Flute 50%
Body Torque Direct 30%
Tomorrow People 20%
Release The Hounds 80%
Koo Koo 70%
Upside Doom 90%

Follow The Prof 90%
Stiff Upper Lip 90%
Wirral Whip 30%
Billy The Fish 90%

Stark 10%
Statement 70%
Over The Moon 80%
Over The Moon Direct 20%
Battle of The Little Big Orme 70%
Mussel Beach 5%
Parasite 10%
Rodney God (pre break) 20%
Never Get Out of The Boat 80%
The Waiting Game 25%
Simon Says 35%
Masterclass 70%
Oyster 30%

Masterplan 5%
Rock Lobster 10%
Wild Understatement 30%
Moonwalk 40%
Pas De Deux 90%
The Last Crusade 50%
Melon Beach 80%

Melanchollie 85%
Stiff Upper Lip 20%
Temple of Gloom 5%
Carinthian Groove 50%

The Brute 5%
Walking Mussel 5%

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