BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday, 28 October 2008

From dismay To joy to dismay to joy

Gave Jim the tour of the mwyn on saturday. Conditions were bon, amazingly the driest i'd ever seen it. However the crest of a wave that i was riding on was about to come (predictably) crashing down. I've always struggled with this crag but this time i fully expected to crush. It wasn't to be, Be Ruthless felt as hard a link as ever and we couldn't for the life of us figure out Under the Bridge (fantastic this though). Jim ran round like a dog with six, the guy doesn't rest, jesus. He made quick work of Firestarter and Panty's Down:

Next day i headed to the pass, the weather was pretty dodge but i thought i'd give it a whirl. Wanted to try diesel, when ever i go to try diesel i end up trying Breathe and Vice versa. So i tried Breathe (well the crux last move). This is a scary throw of a fairly shoddy left hold with a high right heel. I'd never liked it but today i was stronger and could static to within inches of the hold. I changed the heal to a toe to make it less scary chalked up some shitty intermediates and nearly stuck the move. The bottom is fairly steady so fuck it i thought, physche on the last move will count for a lot. I got to the last move but my finger was pissing blood so i dropped it, bastard, a deep split, it was game over. This was given 8a by accident and Hock and Mickey seem to think it could be 7c+. Its still only had 3 ascents though, give it 8a i say, its hard. Anyway i took The cypriot, Clyde and Gav to the mill where we bumped into Stevie Haston (wad tick). I just got frustrated trying to climb with tape.
Cave next day, couldn't be arsed warming up and didn't know what to try, soon gave up on crucial, the worlds hardest 8a. I turned my attention back to Broken Heart, there had to be a way that doesn't dislocate your shoulders. I'd always wandered about the good edge hold on the lip of crucial, surely god had a plan for this hold after all it is particularly pleasant. And he did, from the broken heart start i spanned out to this, ace move! All i needed now was some trickery to allow me to come into the undercut, the most marginal heel toe on the planet worked on one occasion and i got to the easier moves before the jugs. Then i muled it, what a cock! Anyway despite being fairly dangerous to the groin area i was made up with this beta. Usually when i find easier new beta in the cave i kinda wreck a classic hardcore sequence. Well this time i think the moves are better my way, not as hardcore but better. Anyway its easier, no more than 7c+, but really nice. Pics:

My fingers are now cut to ribbons and i must rest. I may go back to the Cave on thurs to try and finish BH. Also i will catch up with Huffy who is in Wales for a few days.

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