BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday, 21 October 2008

Never had a dream come true until the day that i met you.

Headed to the Gop with DC today, on our arrival we were pleased to find dry conditions, bones dryes to be precise. We were physced! After a quick warm up we pottered on some tricky moves. Danny demonstrated Push the Button 8a and i tried some of the moves. Then i thought i'd give my nemesis Smoke a Bloke a blast, this is a one move 7b+ which consists of a blind stab to a narrow pocket off a pinch. Quite powerful but luck is also needed. I felt strong on it but knew that more than strength was needed if i was going the latch the pocket. Anyway i got it picked my feet up and it was in the bag. Had been trying that one for years, the worlds hardest 7b+ anyone? Danny is trying the low start, very Jonnyesque, he says it could be his hardest yet, strong words indeed:

I had a quick look at my project, the crux was still impossible, back to the drawing board on this one. Then i went back to Push the Button. Told Danny this was high on the list to crush when i got back from swiss. I have always been able to do the end of this but the first move was always elusive. I played around with new foot beta and instantly it felt better, "think i can do this before i go to swiss" i remarked. Then i nearly stuck the move: "Think i can do this today" i remarked! Finally i stuck the move but only got 3 fingers on the crux pinch, i peservered anyway and got to the second to last move - it was on! Next go i hit the move again this time managing to get all my fingers on. I grunted came into the sidepull got my foot up and looked at the next pinch, it was do or die, i had to grab that hold. And i did and the next move was ok, i grabbed the jug and let out a roar that Simba would have been proud of. I topped out and looked back down at a shocked but chuffed DC. It had been a good sesh. I had seen the Mule do the first ascent of this problem and it had always been a hardcore thing in my mind. In the end it submitted after about 4 sessions- happy days! Cave tomorrow with the Stack and the rest of the swiss boys.

3 comments:

Ghostface said...

Made up for you homegirl!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Stuart Littlefair said...

Beast! Would be keen for a gop tour, if the doigts ever heal. Is it dry in the winter?

Chris Doyle said...

Well its winter now and it was bone the other day Stu,does get wet after persistent rain though would happily give you the tour, you can come and downgrade PTB, going to swizzy soon though, but i could hook you up with cattells if your keen to visit when i'm away. Go to Pantymwyn on the same day or maybe our new Tremeirchion crag. Hope those injury prone mother fuckers heal!