BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Sunday 5 October 2008

A good day

Headed to orme with danny and mule today but surpise, surprise was a bit wet so we sacked it to the Pass for a change of scene. It was cold and surprisingly dry when we got there, mint bouldering weather. Simon P turned up and we all warmed up on the roadside face on the finger trashers, the Edge Problem and Johnny's Wall. I fancied another crack of Breathe, after pulling onto the last crux move and wasn't really feeling it. I turned my attention to Diesel Power and immediately felt better (in fact better than i had felt on it for 5 years!), i played around and did the powerful moves but struggled with the tensiony finish. Sacked it down to Jerry's where i managed to get Danny on film doing Pool of again (he was trying the direct low start so he thought he better practice the stand- sick!). Well physced cos when he first did it my camera stopped working. Anyway i went back to DP and Pete R turned up, i knew he had been close so i wandered if he had any magic beta. He told me the foot beta for the end and i ended up trying the start with the original beta and found it worked better too. Pete had the end wired but was low percentage on the first move, i suggested my foot beta and he did it, very smooth, got it on camera too. I ended up getting to the crux from the start and i did the finishing moves so game on! I finally found an 8a bloc i can do, for once i can actually do every single move and can attempt to link it. Looking forward to trying to get this done now, could be a dream come true, until someone downgardes it to 7c+ that is........ Some footage and pic next week!

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