TRAINING!

I have been to the Mill four times in the last week. I love the place, i really do. I only climb on the steep board as it is high and wide and full off nice holds both wooden and resin. There is a small group of enthusiasts who can't get enough of the place. I did a couple of den 7b's this week so this is a positive start to my training. Back when i was at uni i used to go to the school 3/4 times a week, i got pretty strong on the board but wasn't really cranking the big numbers outside. The last few years visits to the board have been infrequent and not intense enough. Despite this i have climbed ok on the rock (four 8a's in the last six months). I figure if i can get my old board strength back maybe i could get to the next level. Back in Hoole St, Sheffield i used the spend hours every week hanging off a small bit of wood, i could only hang it for ten seconds, but i did lots of sets. Not surprisingly i used to be pretty nifty on small crimps. These days i can bone down no where near as hard (nor do i like too!). The plan is to put my bit of wood up in my new house and resurrect the old regime! Combine this with consistent power training in the mill (i will be soon working weekends) and hopefully great things will happen.
Couldn't get in the mill today so went to the Cave for some training, as usual on weekends these days it was rammed. I hommed around doing the odd move here and there. Not psyched, all i could think of was the Mill 50! Ted Kingsnorth has made the 2nd ascent of one of my harder links on the Box. Malteser/Last Orders goes at 7c+ (soft according to Ted). Good work!