BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Sunday, 12 July 2009

Peak Hit

The orme was shut for a triathlon on sunday so i thought i'd go to the peak to climb and visit some folk. I stopped in at Raven Tor on saturday, conditions not great. Kristian Klemmow was finishing off the mecca repair job, we spoke about the ormes for a bit and various projects which was interesting. Andy Harris and Dobbin were lurking by pinches wall. It was smeggy but i thought i'd do a bit of bouldering. I tried Staminaband again, this was my first 8a from a while back so i was interested to see how it would feel after not having climbed on it for years. I did one or two of the moves then had a blast and fell getting the famous pinch on powerband. Was interesting comparing this problem which is a benchmark 8a, F8b+ to the thing i did on the box the day before, another level springs to mind. Went back to sheff and socialised a bit and stayed at Nige's. Next day i went to Rubicon early to meet rascal and pickled gherkin. Those boys were on Caviar but i was keen for Zeke. Have had probably two days on this when i lived in sheff once doing the moves. Conditions were ok. I did the moves quicktime and had a go from the ground. Fell off, then realised i needed to work it a bit more so i sussed my beta properly. Next two goes i got to the crux press to the dish but fell just shy of getting it, felt like i could of done it so was pleased. Stopped there cos i didn't want to go through a tip. I will defo be coming back for this, its a cool route. Felt quite easy for an 8b but this could just be because it suits me, i like those crimpy holds with bits for your thumb! Good effort to whoever rebolted it too. Pickles did Caviar (guys on a roll!). Then i went home, back to the deadhang regime tomorrow!
Finally i would like to take this opportunity to beg Keith Bradbury never to compete again, i've seen enough train wrecks!


Pascal on caviar

Some kind of gay ritual

Good to see the bear making a speedy recovery!


lore said...

yo doylo,
what's the story behing the comment to keith?

Doylo said...

the story is he is a disgrace and he's got a micro too