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Sunday, 5 July 2009

Round 5

It seems there is no sign of a let up with this mingin weather. Hot and sweaty! Yesterday i planned to go down LPT but was put off by sweaty temps and persistent showers. Instead i had a burn on the Box, jesus i felt strong, managed to lock to the pinch and get the intermediate but was losing friction on the hold for the crucial cross under, i fell. Then i headed to the Mill with the siurana team, i've certainly gone up a slight notch recently, climbing is essentially about improving for me and attaining levels that seemed a million miles away. Theres more work to be done but i think i'm on the right track, just need some time off work and some good conditions and i think i could climb some things. Simpson dismayed me as usual, i mean this guy has not done done any significant levels of bouldering for 3/4 years yet his base level is silly. He managed Rockatrocity first go and was strong in the Mill, so impressive.I suppose i forget just what a beast he was during his training period.

Anyway i'm gonna keep doing what i'm doing, deadhanging, bouldering on the board and hopefully lose another six pounds (but no more!).

Day 5 on Liquid Ambar today and i'd be lying if i said i wasn't expecting some breakthroughs. Feeling strong and confident i hoped to string a few moves together. I pulled up to the first hard section keen to see how it felt. I pissed the 2nd hard move, total stat man papy. I always hold the black crimp in a different place so i worked out the best position finally, i reached up totally static holding it on top. Then i tried to get my foot up and fell. This was awkward i needed to work something out, so i did a few more foot moves and it was fine. After a bit of a breather i had linked this first hard boulder problem in a oner, font 7b+ or 7c, i screamed, get in. It felt steady. Next i did the slap and just about managed the very hard match after it. I certainly had gone up a notch. The top moves felt steady too, bring on the linkage!

Awesome Mawson finally ticked Melancholie and Simpson checked out Walking Mussel believing it to be easier than 8b+ i.e 8b.
Earlier on there was drama on Mayfair wall when Tommy pulled a sizeable amount of rock off Rupture. The folk below dodged it well, could of been nasty!! Tommy hurt his leg and cut his hand. He was taken to hospital in an ambulance but he's ok if a bit stitched up. Good effort to everyone at the crag who helped out. Here is the hero:

Get well soon mate!


Richie Crouch said...

Shit the bed!

Good to hear the progress on LA Chris and tell Tommy I wish him well asap!

Doylo said...

he's ok i spoke to him on the phone , few weeks off climbing though