BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Saturday, 22 August 2009

Battle of the Parasites

Tonight i climbed a cool new link up route down LPT. Battle of the Parasites follows Battle of the Little Big Orme to the big sidepull rest then steps left into the slopey break on Parasite. It then climbs to the end of Parasite up the cool blue headwall. I think it probably soft 7c+ which is a pretty cool grade for this bit of crag as it is firmly in big 8 land. the hardest move is the move left where Battle leaves Over the Moon. I managed to get a no hands rest after this section by kneebarring the big sidepull on Battle. The top wall on Parasite is brill, really cool rock.
Tommy climbed his project tonight in between Over the Moon start and Walking Mussel. Hard moves at the start lead to a shakeout then a crux section joining Over the Moon Direct up which it finishes. Another great addition, Moonwalk 8a+. Pic of Pete on it below:

Pretty weird how LPT hasn't had a new route for 12 years and has just had 2 in one evening!


Dave Redpath said...

How about the link up of Melancholy into Pas de Deux F8c?

Doylo said...

Everyone seems to mention that link up is such an obvious one. Pretty savage crimping from start to finish with a brief respite at bad boy.must be 8c!