Well my time off work has been pretty shit. My split tip screwed up the first half and rain, bad tides, lack of belayers has screwed up the second so far. I made it up to Kilnsey in the week and had a good session on Grooved Arete. I got to the fourth clip from the deck, i clipped the draw but then my hand buckled. Got a pretty nice sequence on this route though although i can see the long move off the jug at the top being a bitch on redpoint. Nice to have a project at the great Kilnsey though. The tendons in my right hand felt a bit worked so i rested friday and went down LPT to watch Pete on Liquid. It is interesting watching him at the moment, he is in intense battle mode - living and breathing this route and getting down very regularly. I'm not sure i have ever been in such a intense battle, most my attempts at things at my limit have been spread over longer periods of time. Pete is currently attempting to batter the route into submission. He really just wants to get it done! This approach is effective but also brings heightened stress and has a more all consuming effect on your life. The problem with this route for Pete is that if the slightest thing goes wrong on the hard climbing, it is very hard to recover. Its hard to re-adjust on those holds! So he needs a good day conditions wise when he's in the right physical and mental shape and then he needs to climb it extremely well. A week ago he tickled the undercut high up before his left hand popped off. Above is a few more ticky moves but he's pretty solid on them. Fingers crossed he will tick it soon. I hope to get down there tomorrow, it pissed it down this morning.
And he's off!
My favourite crag in Britain:
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