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Saturday, 22 August 2009

Taking the lows with the highs

Well things have gone royally tits up in the last few weeks. Since i greased off the last move of Pas de Deux my strength has been deteriorating at a rapid pace. I have thought long and hard about this phenomena. Alright so i haven't really trained for 3/4 weeks, this could be responsible. Also i have considered the possibility that maybe my body has just adapted to being lighter. After all it was used to pulling up 12 stone and all of a sudden it doesn't have too anymore. This doesn't seem to happen to Pete or Tommy though. Hmm, whatever something needs to be done, i haven't finished crushing yet, not by a long shot. I spent last week stuffing my face with cake trying to console myself, this obviously helped too. My main mistake was not to take advantage of things when i was cranking i.e. stop working. I really should have done Halfway House and Pas de Deux and more. I've always known that weight loss for me would not be a long term thing, more short term in order to crush some hard stuff. Anyway i intend to start deadhanging again so hopefully my fingers should feel stronger in a few weeks, also need to get light again.
Yesterday after a horrendous five hour drive i headed to the Orme with Matt and Schelmerdine. These days i'm always a little nervous about doing easier routes. This may sound gay but i've been so focussed on trying to climb at my limit and redpointing for so long i've lost much of my route reading/onsighting ability. So i often have an epic on 7a's etc.. even though i used to walk up then when i was piss weak. Many of these easier routes on the orme were big deals when i did them so i was keen to revisit a few. Last night i did Contusion 6c, Julio Juvenito again, my first 7a and the Bloods 7a+. I felt happy to be on these routes, it was nice not to be in extremis, just climbing up perfect rock, the odd little crank here and there enjoying the easier sections. It made me realise that i should make time for more of this, there are some brilliant routes on the Orme that i am keen to revisit. Doing those routes that i hadn't done for 9 years really took me back to my early climbing days and it felt nice. Every increase in grade was such a big deal, getting on the sharp end was so nervewracking back then. One of the first days i went climbing with the Mule he flashed The Bloods and i was quite simply astounded, to me 7a+ was another level and there was this guy who was my age doing it first time. Anyway thats enough reminiscing, its green tea time.

6 comments:

Nizza Grandpouce said...

Keep hitting that green tea mate!

Doylo said...

will do geezer!

james said...

why not use a weight belt to offset the weight loss? then when you hit the rock you'll CRUSH!

Doylo said...

Yes indeed if my loss of strength is a case of the body adapting to its new weight then the weight belt could work maybe. I think my biggest mistake like i said was not climbing more when i felt tip top, i won't make the same mistake again next time. I have certainly learnt a lot over the last few months!

lore said...

i feel you on the timing issue. i seem to always waste my peaking moments for such useless things like work. we are absolutely doomed chris, we will never be truly satisfied and we will always want to move a step forward.
can't wait to be back in uk.

Doylo said...

tis true, always striving to move forward is important though!