BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Friday, 13 August 2010

Ansteys

Spent the last week down in Devon working on Dartmoor. It's not often that there are after work climbing options when you're away from home so i was keen to take advantage of being reasonably close to Ansteys Cove. I always fancied checking this place out so came down a bit earlier on Sunday. After a five hour non stop drive there was only one thing for it and i jump straight on the famous 8a Cider Soak. Bit of a harsh warm up but i'm liking the moves, there are some great shapes on it too. Sparky's dishing out the beta which is very helpful as its quite a complex little number. I have a few redpoints but my attempts fall just shy of the top break and i vow to return. Next sesh i meet up with Jon and the exile Ted who has spent the last few months working on Jersey. I have a few more redpoints and fall coming into the painful fingerlock at the top. The other route high on my ticklist was the mega Empire of the Sun 7b, its getting pretty dark but i'm dead keen to get it done so jump on. Love this climb, my favourite 7b in Britain and was nice to flash as i don't flash much these days. Manage to coax Bob and Tim to another after work hit, first RP i fall going for the flat jug at the end, next up i get the jug, swing my feet, stare at the top of the crag an inch away and then lose my strength and fall! Can't believe i fell here, its been a long time since i can't hold such a jug. And so the tick gets away and i leave with mixed emotions. I felt quite fit down there but at the same time the epics on 8as continues - not a good sign for the impending Diamond season!

Jon on Empire:


Me on CS:


The Exile: