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Sunday, 22 May 2011

Mcclure Blitzes Mayfair Wall

Team Marmot Europe are in Wales this week so expect some good ticks if the rain holds off. Today Inspector Mawsons and Steve Mcclure were on the Orme ticking on Mayfair wall. Neil finished off Masterplan, first redpoint. He struggled with the crux of this when he tried it just after i did it but he's an 8c crusher these days so it went down ok. Steve then pulled off the first flash defying those long reaches. He then onsighted Masterclass (first onsight???) putting the clips in thinking it to be one grade easier than Masterplan. I'm always confused with the grading on this wall as for me (and others i'm sure) Masterclass is harder than Masterplan. This is due to Masterplan being a modern bouldery style and Masterclass being old school and technical. It's good to have confirmation that the grades are fairly accurate from someone not affected by styles at this level. Of course these are not surprising feats by Steve buts its still nice that a good climber came along and did them first go. Shame he didn't do Oyster for the full sweep.
I did a lot of climbing this week, six days on in fact! I did some training and ticked some nice routes. I went to Pantymwyn earlier in the week to have a bash on Grand Canyon. I've been going to the gorge for years. There is a picture of me asleep under the bouldering when i was 7 or so, i shunted the slabs back in the 90s and of course i've been there bouldering loads of times but to my shame never climbed on the steep side. In my ticking frame of mind i was keen to do the classic 7b+ Grand Canyon so met Lee down there. There's not really a decent warm up route there so i thought i'd give Canyon a bash to see how high i got, a stategic error! Its not your average North Wales 7b+, its steep and pumpy and i was soon boxed and off. Unfortunately the pump was terminal so i couldn't really do much more and left without doing it. I returned later in the week to finish it. Its really good- involving pumpy big moves! Only the Diamond and the Gwynt really compares for pump factor. Yesterday i went back up to Craig Seiriol with Lee Proctor and Paul. Rob Pitt and Lee Roberts were working Hounds. I did a new route that i'd drilled last time but not bolted left of Osama. Its called Gadaffi the Diplomat and is about 6c+. Its nothing special but is worth doing. Lee climbed Osama with a different sequence which he reckoned was more like 6c. Jonny Boy had been up to do the groove left of Hounds. This is another stellar line which suprisingly went at 6c/+. It is another classic, great positive holds the whole way up, ace!
Lee on the hunt:

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