BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday, 17 May 2011

New Mega Sport Line Above A55

A few weeks ago i went up to the old quarries between Penmaenmawr and Llanfairfechan with Gav Foster. I had heard of Gav's project up there that was supposed to be very good so i was keen to check it out. Gav bolted it a while ago, he spied the line after walking up there in hope of finding some bouldering potential. Working away and his house building project meant that getting consistent days on it was proving tricky. After slogging up there i was hoping it was going to be good as people had suggested. I was not disappointed! The line is quite striking and i was immediately impressed. The route takes a curving overhanging prow before finishing up a immaculate headwall. We got to work and after an initial scare pulling some loose blocks off the start (probably a result of winter freeze thaw, luckily the holds underneath were perfect) Gav soon got the moves again. He was kind enough to let me have a dog up it. The start is steep and keeping tension was tricky as a result of the low friction and slopey holds. After 8 or so metres of amazing slopey compression the line eases and leaves the arete for the headwall which leads to the chain. Gav had some redpoints and was falling just shy of the easier top section. I knew he just needed to get back ASAP and he could do it. Today he went back with Mr P and finished his project. It really is a stunner and anyone who climbs around the grade 7c/+ in Wales (visitor or local) really need to get up there and get on it. I really think it is one of the best sport routes in Wales. It has the quality moves and rock that you find on the best routes but what sets is apart in my eyes is the unique line that is really quite rare. Its not just another bit of overhanging limestone (in fact its not even limestone). I can't wait to get on it again. The name is Release the Hounds (a reference to the people chomping at the bit to get on it). I thought 7c after my brief dog up it, Gav's not sure but thinks maybe even 7c+ so 7c/+ will do til the repeats start rolling in. In the bay to the left is a new 6c+ that i put up which will be a good warm up for the meat. In terms of access details i'm sure Mr P will have them online soon enough and as he's much better at such things than me i'll leave it to him

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