BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Monday 9 May 2011

Orme Bouldering Heaven

Mule's new bouldering area on West Shore has finally been revealed. I haven't been yet but have heard some good reports. There's quite a bit of bouldering dotted around the Orme now. Here's a quick rundown on it:

Parisellas Cave
Say no more

Split Infinity
15 problems 6a+ - 7c+/8a
A classic warming up spot with a hard traverse and some good up problems.
Best problem: Belpig 7c

Breck Road
15 problems 6c+ - 7c
Great independent up lines and some good links and a mega traverse.
Best problem: Swing of Fire 7b

Normans Wisdom
5 problems 7a - 7c
Direct starts to routes and a cool traverse.
Best Problem: Snout 7c


Pill Box Wall
30??? problems
6c+ - 8a+
Pristine crimpy lime and link up heaven.
Best Problem: Ain't No Party/Mr Whippy?


Pigeon's Cave Boulders
35 Problems?
V0 - 7b+
Smooth boulders with more easier grades.
Best Problem: ?

Sea View Walls
6 problems
6b - 7c
Some amazing higballs off a tidal ledge
Best Problem: Flashpoint 7b+


Badger Cave
5 Problems
Steep Cave.
v4 - 7a+
Best Problem: Brock Direct

West Shore Boulders:
30/40 Problems
6a - 8a
Cool boulderfield
Best Problem: The Spray 8a?
There's also Clutch, Plumbline Traverse and that easy sunny vertical stuff above the road on West Shore side.
Some interesting musings on hard grades on Paul Robinsons blog. He's travelled the world and done most of the hard shit so i'd say he's got a pretty good idea on what goes on. Its interesting reading about his grade calculations. Maybe we should use them to sort out the contentious problems over here. It sounds like East Coker and Silk Cut would both be 8b on the Robinson Scale. East Coker is 8a+ into 7c+/8a ands Silk Cut is 8b into higball 7a+, not big enough link up numbers to warrant 8b+ in his book. We don't need world wads to come and repeat our problems we just need to read their blogs!

2 comments:

dave said...

Pill Box Wall
30??? problems
6c+ - 8a+
Pristine crimpy lime and link up heaven.
Best Problem: Ain't No Party/Mr Whippy

should read
Pill Box Wall
about 5, +lots of links
Shit version of Roadrunner.

Doylo said...

Should also have a footnote: famous for local 8b climber Dave noden who cant do 7a here