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Monday, 2 May 2011

Osama Bin Bin Bag

My time off is drawing to an end. Have done loads of climbing, lots of nice easier routes and few projects done and bolted. Thursday i headed to Three Degrees Crag with sausage, Gav and Panton. I tried my proj there, some progress as i got to the crux on top rope but still struggling to get my feet up on the undercut. More burl needed. Sausage got on Pete's 8a+. I was interested to see what he thought of it as it took Pete 3 days and he's no slouch. He did the moves pretty much first go then lowered to the top of the ramp and linked them first go. He still didn't get the redpoint though as the holds (which are very small) heated up a bit. Conditions are quite important on this, seems Pete was wise doing it in winter. Anyway Sausage reckoned 8a+ was right, a similar proposition to Pas de Deux he said and he'll return in cooler temps. Me and Mule went for a random mooch on the Orme on Friday. We abbed into Seal Point for some reason??

I had been down to do Crigyll Outlaws in 2000. The rock is nice down there and the sport routes look good and the bolts aren't fucked yet. The hangers have rusted a bit. Then we went to check out Tony and Colin Goodeys mini crag on West Shore side of the Orme, this is under the road above some concrete slabs. I'm sure its destined to be quite a popular venue as its nice rock and non serious. We soloed a few diddy routes.

I took Jonny boy out to new crags on Saturday. I tried one of my best projects and finally made a breakthrough with the beta. Sould be on redpoint next time. Jon put in a good effort and flashed my groove route. He reckoned it was 7a+ for real men who can jam. I think the grade of this will divide opinion! Today i did a new 6c+ at a non limestone venue which i named Osama Bin Bin Bag, watch this space about this one, some impressive shit. I really feel if i didn't have a few hard projects then i'd be happy to have a break from trying to beast it this year. Just going out and doing routes and quick redpoints has been mega. Its a better life of this i am sure!

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