BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Sunday, 8 June 2008

Your Sunday Sermon: The GREAT Orme

Llandudno's Great Orme is a magical place. It is a rock climbers paradise combining as it does many options for bouldering, sport climbing and trad. I have been visiting the crag for the best part of ten years and many of my happiest and hardest climbing moments have been had on it walls and overhangs. It has all; whether your clipping up 7a's down LPT or fiddling in dodgy wires on the upper drive or throwing hardcore shapes in the cave of justice there is enough climbing here to last anyone a significant amount of time. The true quest for those who love this crag is to graduate to Ormesmanship and claiming your place in the Ormesman country club along with Tony, Mel, Norman etc...This is one of my greatest ambitions. In terms of hard climbing this place is extremely significant sporting a couple of the hardest boulder problems and one of the hardest routes in the UK. The Big Link of Parisellas remains unrepeated and weighs in at a tough Font 8b+, howvever if stamina isn't your bag and your prefer something shorter head to Pill Box Wall and see if you can pull onto the Gaskins problems (somewhere around the 8b/8b+ mark). This illustrates the diversity of this crag. Many styles of climbing are catered for. If hard sport climbing is your bag wghy not try for the fourth ascent of Liquid Amber, hard 8c and apparently one of the finest sport routes in the country. If this is too easy there is always Neil Carson's unrepeated Big Bang, 9a and absurdly thin at the top. A true Orme legend. And yes there are a few projects dotted around most notably in Parisellas where font 8c-9a link ups await the globe trotting super star. This place has quality climbing in abundance and is the jewel in the North Wales crown. So hence forth to the Orme- she will reward you in rich climbing experiences and many happy memories.God bless!

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