The mysteries of rock climbing are akin to the great mysteries of the universe: where does matter come from? Is time travel possible and what the hell is up with the Bermuda Triangle? In rock climbing there are many grey areas which need researching. One example: one nondescript day a climber turns up to his local crag which he has been to many times before. After warming up he feels pretty strong (nothing unusual here). He soon realises that this is no normal day on the crag, he really is crushing juice out of the holds. After beasting everything he is content, he has gone up another level. His training has paid off. The climber goes home, maybe even has a rest day. On his next climbing day he returns to crush his hardest project. But hang on a minute everything feels hard again, he‘s not locking off Jack daniels with such ease. What the fuck is goin on? Maybe he climbs better second day on or maybe he wamed up differently on that strong day. The reality of the situation is that the climbers strong day was just that, he doesn’t reach this level again despite continued pulling down. How is this so? Surely strength is strength, you’ve either got it at a certain time or you ain’t. The tendons do not weaken overnight, how has this happened? The truth is that freak days are one of the mysteries of rock climbing and we may never know what causes them or why the strength leaves us! What is important is to take advantage of the freak days by crushing our projects into oblivion. Do not leave the crag on these days until your tips are bleeding.
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