BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Saturday, 5 July 2008


Yesterday i rock climbed the amazing wall down at Sea View on the Orme. This is the best new problem i've ever done by a mile. Its the best problem i've done on limestone and one of the best i've seen in the British Isles. Its a standup start big move to a jug off an undercut, then bust out left to a thin tufa, get a heel toe in, big stretch to a pinch, hard move to a good hold then a high wiggy top out (bout 5/6 metres?). Mule found this problem on one of his exploratory rambles. Nice one mule props to you. The dog was keen for this himself but didn't get round to trying it, after some procrastination he gave me the green light to go for it. I had to ab down it to clean it and sika one hold. I also did the top out on the ab rope. Ok now for the downsides, this problem is wet during the winter months and after heavy rain. We were not sure if it would ever dry so its a big bonus that it dries up. Also the good hold after the crux has yet to reach a atate of stability. I glued it but its still not solid. So i'm either gonna pull it off and clean it and glue it back on or just leave it and hope that there is some sort of hold underneath. Its an intermediate so even if the hold thats left is smaller it will still go. As for the grade i reckon it was about 7b+ for me but could be harder for the vertically challenged. What happens to that glued hold will also affect the final grade of it. Anyway i had to try hard to climb this problem, i was pumped and it was a great experience. Photos to follow...

Now a vid by Ricky Bell of Jap Si in the states