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Wednesday, 24 March 2010

Reality Check

Well i'm going sport climbing in Spain in a few weeks so i've been trying to get on a rope a bit recently. I've had a couple of sessions on an old Orme route project which i first tried getting on for 10 years ago. It is a very nice bit of rock, if a bit sharp and gnarly. Its strange when the last time you climbed on a rope you were relatively fit, after a winter of bouldering for some reason i thought maybe i had retained some of this fitness. I headed up to Normans Wisdom with Jack ratt and jumped on Normans Wisdom 6c+ (never done it before). The crux turned out to be short lived but techy bad holds and feet (just my bag!). Anyway i got through the crux to some decent holds and then my arms just melted. To add insult to injury i had climbed it terrible, no flow and very nervously. Despite it being early in the season it was still a shock to get shutdown on 6c+. On the positive side the only way is up! I still think i might be able to sprint redpoint some shortish stuff at Margalef. Will have to leave the big numbers to the other two though.
Haven't had a tick this year yet, would be nice to get soemthing tricky done!


Fiend said...

YaY, I get shut down on F6c+s too :D.

I'm sure the crushing will come back a few days into your trip.

Doylo said...

Ha hopefully, its not a pumpy 6c+ hence the dismay at my arm meltdown.

Jasper said...

A year or so ago when I was crushing 7C boulder problems I went to The Foundry and failed on a 6c route. Decided not to tie on again after that! Stamina is for gays. ;-P

Doylo said...

50 metre stamina is gay, doing 7c boulders on cliffs is cool though. Love PE