BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Thursday, 25 March 2010

Too many projects...

Went back to Crag X today to scope some new lines. The left hand side of the crag was where i was heading. So hard to tell how hard things are just by looking though. I abbed down (disturbing some big blocks at the top on the way) and could instantly see a potential for 3 lines, they all looked tricky. with two looking quite thin. the rock was so clean and very nice, similar to the stuff at the Cattells Tremerchion bouldering crag. One had a big pocket jug halfway up, i knew it had been toproped to the jug by someone coming in from the right. I was quite psyched to see if the line would go direct the whole way. I set up a top rope and tried the moves from the hole, i found a way eventually utilising my big reach to get a pretty decent hold. It went, the direct start looked blank though but being an optimistic, stubborn bugger i had another look. I didn't want to traverse into the hole if i could avoid it. There were two holds covering quite a big area of rock and they were quite far apart, the godsend was that the feet were quite good and you could really sit on the footholds.I managed to make the move up to a graton like crimp with my right off a crimp backhand with my left. The jug was closeish but i was stuck. There was only one thing for it and i sprung again with my right. After a few goes i stuck the jug, what a fucking move. I was buzzing. I hadn't done many routes like this before, quite unique for North Wales. I had done all the moves so was happy. I have already dubbed the route Three Degrees of Levitation (a pun on Sharmas 9a dynofest in Ceuse). Grading it will be very tricky as its incredibly morpho. Time to come back with the drill and try some redpoints. The longer i live round here the more projects i seem to acquire, need to start ticking a few of them now.

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