Diamond Science

Pete Harrison has been employing some scientific theory in order to work out Diamond conditions on a given day. The Diamond is extremely fickle and hard to predict, a sunny day can end up a gopfest and a rainy day mint and vice versa. Yesterday it rained all morning, very heavy showers, it seemed like it would be a write off but we went with Pete's theory and it was actually pretty good. Pete reckons that a difference of 8 degrees or more between air temp and dew point means good conditions. The relevant information can be found here I went down yesterday with Jordan and Naomi Buys and Jon and Becky. Jordan had tried The Brute the previous day and was keen for another go. He worked it some more and had a couple of redpoints. I got on Jonnny boy's route from last year The Waiting Game. I was intrigued to try this as i had spent so long watching Jon on it and it looked such fun. I got it worked out after a few go's and was on redpoint. I fell off the last move into the Hysteria jugs on my best go which i was satisfied with. It's definitely a mini classic and one of the sweetest little 8as in Wales. The last sequence is so good. I was doing it a long man's way which involved keeping my hands low and just springing up to the final jug. Jordan got to the last move on the flash. He was totally cruising but opted for my beta which proved a bit long. Anyway we didn't manage it and the 2nd ascent awaits. Its bottom end for 8a, i'd probably rate it as a tad harder than Follow The Prof down Pigeons which is hard 7c+ in my book. I did a lot of training this week and in my last session finally hit the strength levels that i had pre-injury. This was really pleasing and encouraging for my projects. My two biggies now both involve hard moves so strength is the priority.