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Monday, 15 August 2011

Dip Week

Last week started off really well, i had a meaty session on my Dulas proj. I fell off the penultimate move again. I got this far the day i hurt myself. I felt really good flowing through the steep moves and wrestling at the end. Tommy was working the sections. He used a non hold on the last move that was a bit worse but was closer so easier to grab. I had a exploratory look and it was very unobvious but superior beta. Nice one mate! Next go i grabbed the hold and dropped the last hard move, it was my 4th redpoint so i was a bit goosed. Next time! After that day i just felt fucked all week. I worked out the crack on Over the Moon and got into it on redpoint but just felt tired. I had that overtraining strained feeling in my arms. Tried to go back to Dulas on Thursday with Dyer but it was gopping so we went to one of my new crags. Neil tried a 7c+ of mine. I was anticipating a flash ascent but it wasn't to be, he found the crux sequence quite hard and didn't even get it first redpoint. It sounds bad but i was quite pleased. I thought it probably was 8a when i did it but didn't want to overgrade anything else and wasn't confident in my abilities. Next time Ding Dong! I tried my hole project and didn't feel any worse on it. I just need to get to the hole consistently and i'll have a chance. Such a physical beast i love it! Saturday morning me, Caff and Jimmy Big Guns went to Malham. It was quite wet but we got stuck in to some dry routes. Jimmy put the clips in Connect 4 so i had a do on that. I worked it out but it felt a bit hard for the weekend. Its not the most inspiring route at Malham either. Caff was trying Rainshadow:

He had tried it once before and tried it both days this weekend. Considering he'd only had 3 days on it he was looking really good. He worked out some important beta on the crux bulge and by the end he was looking very solid on the upper wall. Best moment of the weekend was Caff in the steepness shouting down that there was 5c moves on it! He was serious. The upper section was touted as 8a+ but Caff declared it 7c+ by the end of his tries. I don't think he understands that the more you do something the easier it gets. Ha ha, total legend! He's so psyched at the moment and has really pushed onto the next level. British sport climbing is in good shape. His new nickname is The Feather! Me and Jimmy tried Toadall Recall. Jimmy struggled with the reachy moves. I fell off the crux, my skin was not coping well with Malham and my shoes were too smeary. I had forgotten how hard it is. I tried to tick Chiselling The Dragon at the end but alas my skin could take no more. So the week ended a bit shitly, i felt pretty average. Back to Wales for overhangs and footholds, my finances have meant that i've been stuck there for two years with hardly any holiday and now i just want to stay. I would have chastised someone with this sad attitude years ago! Don't forget folks, Diamond season starts today, make the most of it and take some gloves for the last part of the handline!

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