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Sunday, 21 August 2011

End of the Dream

Two years ago Pete Harrison installed the handline into the Diamond and i started seriously trying The Brute project. I spent 25 days trying the line over the 2009 and 2010 season getting about 6 moves from the top and always failing on a long redpoint crux. Last winter i gave up hope of climbing it and after a very slow start to the year after a lay off i knew i was miles off the form required to climb it. An upsurge in form gave me some hope and i planned to start training endurance circuits. I was on course to give it another bash but injury curtailed these plans and a month off in the middle of summer was no help. At Malham the other day and as Diamond season was approaching i knew the game was up. Neil Dyer had re-equipped the line with me in 2006 and i knew he was keen to climb it so i passed the baton onto him. It broke my heart a bit as this line had been a big inspiration for me in recent years but the harsh reality was it was a bit much for my fitness levels. Last year i would have done it on my best goes with perhaps 3% extra but it wasn't to be. Neil climbed the Brute today after about 6/7 redpoints spread over 3 days. He romped up it locking every move and never looked in danger of falling. As some small consolation i got the FA on camera. We both think the grade is hard 8b. The old project name remains in tribute to Steve Mayers and co who had the vision all those years ago. I'd like to think i can climb 8b in 25 days but i guess i just came up a bit short fitness wise on this one. The route is amazing, pure power endurance up a bulging overhang. The moves and holds are perfect, it is a very special route. I can't think of a better 8b in Britain. Everyone who climbs around that grade should come give it a bash, you won't be disapointed.
Video stills:

Today we abbed in at high tide off the top of the Orme, it was quite exciting. Neil and Pete H have been all over the upper walls checking them out. Hard proj:

Me arriving:


Dave Redpath said...

Great news, you still got time to finish it yourself bud. Good to see more proj going up. Can't wait for a diamon 9 to spit on moons grave for calling crag uninspiring

Glyn Hudson said...

Has the video footage even been published? It would be amazing to see this!

Doylo said...

its on Fresh Meat on Vimeo Glyn.