BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday, 2 August 2011

Red Meat

The weather has been turd around here recently. Every day is cloudy and still with no wind and high humidity. Lord only knows how Caff did Big Bang in this weather. While he was beasting 9a i was greasing off Follow The Prof. Tricky little number this one, its becoming a bit of a bogey route. I think its as hard as Stiff Upper Lip personally. Pigeons is a very fickle place and often the rock feels like butter. A fresh day is almost essential for mint conditions. I still can't believe how we neglected it and let it rot for all those years. When all is done the grade spread wil be something like - 7b+.7c,7c+,8b,7c+,7b,7c,8a,8a+,8a+,8b+. Quite a meaty place! We sacked it off and went to belay Pete Harrison on a new route that he had spent 5 days bolting and preparing. Pete has been all over the Orme checking stuff for the forthcoming guide and inevitably has spotted some gaps. He unearthed this little beauty a few months ago and then went to work on a big steep wall left of Dave Lyon's big routes at Craig Pen Gogarth. Pete was buzzing about the line and we were keen to check it out. It is indeed a big wall. The route is about 30 metres so pretty big for the Orme. Pete put the clips in on abseil then led his project. He reckoned it was about 7a+, Me and Mule both fell off it and reckoned 7b and 2 stars. It will certainly feel 7b for the onsight, it was almost intimidating setting off on a long route. Its been a while! I think Pete has settled on the name Red Meat, very appropriate. Pics:

I always defend conditions on LPT to people saying that if common sense is applied you will rarely find it terrible down there. I.e. don't go down when its been raining and feels humid and minging. Yesterday i failed to take my own advice and went down with Tommy. I almost decked on the start of Over the Moon and we bailed. Dick. I've been back at Gorgy's and the strength is returning. Should be cranking 7b again soon. All i need now is that beautiful psyche i had pre injury to return!
Caff was back down LPT behaving like a 9a beast the other day. He put to bed Melanchollie first redpoint and warmed down on Statement putting the clips in. Not surprising but good to see a man on form.

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