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Monday, 29 August 2011

Megalopa 2nd Ascent

Pete Robins, king of banging your head against a brick wall finally repeated Megalopa on LPT today. He started trying it in May with Dyer but Neil bagged the FA three weeks ago. Pete ventured on, he'd put too much time in to give up and finally he started to get close falling off the last moves. He went backwards once or twice but finally topped out to his sheer relief. Pete becomes the first man to tick the LPT 8c+ trilogy which is quite an achievement especially as they're all so different. Sea of Tranquility is a boulder problem in the middle of the wall (about font 8a). Liquid Ambar is steep power endurance and Megalopa is longer with a hard middle boulder, a shake out and then leaning falloffable headwall. All mega routes! After 3 years of seiging LPT every summer you should probably txt someone else if you're looking for a partner down there!
I was back down the Diamond yesterday and managed to finish off The Waiting Game, i stuck with my big slap last move and it was touch and go on the link but i managed to hang on in there. I think this was the 2nd ascent, it looks ace now its chalked again. Barrows did a Jordan i.e, should of flashed it and then didn't redpoint it. So this little soft 8a has taken two 8c scalps in as many days! Bet you're psyched Jonny boy. Here is a vid of Barrows blowing the flash, look how long he shakes out i think he thinks he's still in Spain!:

The big moment of the day for me though was i finally got round to doing Rub a Dub Dub. This is the warm up 7a on the left and it encapsulates all that is good about Diamond climbing into a long wall climb. It didn't dissapoint and i thoroughly enjoyed it. Think Pete is giving it 6c+ in the guide. There's no hard moves to be fair. For two seasons i just tried the Brute, warming up on it and redpointing. Now i've done 3 routes at the crag and i'm keen for more. The climbing is so good! Apparently Steve Mayers the old Diamond master went down for a look today, legend. I was trying my hole project inland. I did a good link and got into the hole again feeling stronger. Hopefully it won't be long. Tommy tried my recently upgraded 8a and got the beta sorted out. He confirmed that it is very good indeed. I'm still collecting footage for the film and every day i'm getting new ideas in my head. What started out as a little idea is becoming ever bigger. Nice to have something to work on, i only used to make films about holidays and now i don't go on holiday anymore the camera hasn't been out much.

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