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Thursday, 4 August 2011

Gwynt Cherry Popped

The smeggy weather didn't stop Caff doing Big Bang again! Unbelievable, how many people can just repeat their hardest redpoint like this. I reckon he could pip Ondra to 9b+. I've tried to climb down Pigeon's a few times but you might as well not bother unless its a fresh day. One day me and Pete H bailed to the mighty Castell-y-Gwynt. Much to my shame i had never climbed down there. Lee Roberts was hanging on the main crag replacing some of the threads on Psychic Threshold a very meaty E5 6b:

I was keen to give Hidden Sign 7b a bash. This was put up in the 90s by UKB baron Simon Lee. This is a great continental style route, probably 22 metres with a wicked first part on lovely tufa holds. There is no warm up there so i felt flash pumped after this section. Luckily there is a no hands rest before the top crux. I knew it was fairly sequency and tricky as Ally Smith had told me he dropped it there. Its always heartbreaking dropping the top of a long route but luckily i read it right and climbed to the chain. A great route and definitely recommended. Cruella Deville 7b to the right looked good too. I belayed Pete on the Long Goodbye 7b+ which looked cool. Its all good basically!
Pete on Long Goodbye and climber on Psychic Threshold:

Yesterday i did some bouldering on the Orme with Nodder. Nodder has locked himself in the Mill for 4 months and has hardly been outside at all. The hard work seemed to be paying off the other day when he did Dans Finish. Check out his cazy beta on the crux:

We floundered a bit in the Cave but it was good. I didn't feel too bad and managed to get to the shothole twice on Trigger Cut. Not bad for a chuffer. I tempted Nodder to go to Pill Box telling him i would show him the way to do his nemesis Mr Whippy. This went out the window when we got there and i couldn't even do it. I couldn't do anything as it happened. Verdict- ok power but weak fingers, must address. Easily sorted with a bit of deadhanging.
Back down Pigeon's today with Pete again. We were both keen to finish Follow the Prof 7c+. I should have done it the day i did Stiff Upper Lip slipping off the top of the crag. I hadn't had much luck with grease since then. After a few frustrating redpoints i finally found myself shaking out beneath the last move. I sagged but i grabbed and it was done. Pete did it next go too.

It must be the best 7c+ on the Great Orme as there aren't many contenders. The last move is up there with the last move of Bad Boy quality wise, it felt like tough 7c+ to me and harder than Stiff Upper Lip. Ally was trying Stiff Upper Lip extension but didn't manage it. I can't wait to have a proper session on that final boulder problem now. So good! I read an old OTE with Stiff Upper written up in the Welsh report and George stating that he was leaving the final 2 moves for a 'younger man'. I think its nearly time, back to the Dulas!

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