BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Monday, 11 June 2012


Redpointing sucks! Well sometimes.... After being on redpoint on day 4 of Walking Mussel and falling off the crux i thought it would be a speedy tick. 10 days later and i'm still falling off that same move (a little more convincingly of course). I've done the move four times and dropped the next hard move. I guess i just need to accept that that is the nature of this route. It's basically two hard moves in the middle of the cliff and they are pretty damn easy to fall off. Today i was mainly annoyed because i felt shit after 2 days off. I guess i just need to think of Pete and Neil on Megalopa last year, they were in the same position but higher up the cliff and they managed to find the mental resilience. I could still do it next go.. it's just that it could take all year! Having 3 weeks off it hasn't helped. I think i'm quite stifled by lack of a decent tick but i've just not had many opportunities to get anything done. On the positive i got the flake on Pilgrim last week, a new highpoint. Which means i'll probably do the problem in about 2015. Alas i do despair! The Pill Box has been in vogue recently, even it's biggest critic David Noden has been going and forced to retract all the horrible, bitter things he has said over the years. There's a lot of linkage and problems to do there but the new stuff is barely documented so the new guide should point folk in the right direction. There's even a few more links for an old timer like me....

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