BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Saturday, 30 June 2012

Waterfall Action

Pete Robins made the 3rd ascent of The Hole Truth (8b) at Dyserth Waterfall yesterday. He went to finish it the other day but the crag was dripping. He discovered some feet first beta on the finishing moves on the lip. He's only got 3 8bs to do in this part of North Wales. The Brute on the Diamond and two of Caff's routes on slate (i think). There's 3 8bs at Dinbren he needs to do to be a true completist however. Rob Mirfin's 2 8b's could do with a repeat. They're definitely nails. Pete also linked Meatsville Arizona into Madness Reigns at 8a/+ (Meaty Madness?). He got a kneebar in the base of the groove and then slapped across the lip into Madness. When i first did Meatsville i attempted to glue the big cracked break to preserve the jugs. In hindsight i should have pulled it all off as it was fairly unstable. Well the break is gone now and the original Meatsville is hard 7c+ now. Apparently it's more obvious to climb it on the left now at its original grade, 7c. It sounds like it could do with one bolt being placed. Pete Harrsion glued a loose block on Strawberries Man- a few people had mentioned this to me. He ticked the route as did Ducko (for his first 7c). Bonza!

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