BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Thursday, 28 June 2012

Bumpy boys hit Dulas

Just when you thought the conditions couldn't get any worse they did! As well as the rain and the seepage it's now disgustingly humid. You're not supposed to be able to see your breath when it's not cold- quite possibly the worst conditions for climbing. Last weekend the beasts descended on Llanddulas to try Temple of Gloom. I really do cherish my routes, they're like babies to me so it's amazing to watch strong climbers trying them. Temple has had no less than 6 8c climbers on it this year! Mawson and Pasquill turned up on the Saturday, Mawson is fit as a fiddle (as usual) and has just done a new 8c link at Malham. Pasquill has been in the Frankenjura, he didn't manage anything super hard as it was hot but one day he managed 3 8bs! Not bad by most people's standard. I was intrigued to see how Temple would hold out. Pete Robins has been taunting me saying it's 8a+ ever since he repeated it. Bob Hickish had been over a few times this year but not ticked it yet. The crag was in pretty good condition. Pascal soon had the route down to about 6 moves(!) and faired the best falling off after all the hard climbing (i fell off this move once too). He was so powered out he couldn't manage the jug to jug move. It was cool watching him climb on it. Vid:

Neil got it all sorted but wasn't feeling on top form so the redpoint eluded him. Jordan came down the next day for a burn too. I've got a new little project there which i'm pretty psyched about. It's only a link up with a few independent moves but i love the boulder problem on it. It's pretty tough with slopey grips.
Some pics:


Inspector warming up flashing Mudjekeewis 7b+:

Mick Lovatt trying Wirral Whip 7c+:

I had another 'could ave done it' moment on Walking Mussel. This time it was a wet foot rather than a wet hand that stopped me. I've got a different sequence to avoid the wet hold now but i still have the stand on it. The crag was the wettest yet. It's frustrating as i'm ready to finish it but i need it to be dry. Just got to be patient!

No comments: