Corinthian Groove is a route on Chain Gang Wall that was first climbed by Mark Katz in 2003. At 8b it's the hardest route on the Upper Drive and it's seen off a few suitors over the years. The route starts up the classic font 7a+, Mr Whippy before tackling a very hard crux section and finishing up Fhoulish Ghoulish (prob about 7a+ to the top from there). Most notably Danny Cattell nearly repeated it a few years ago falling off the headwall off Fhoulish. He didn't have the top wired and is an unbelievable punt. The route started to acquire a bit of a repuation and it was only a matter of time before ticking machine Pete Robins gave it a blast. Despite being well within his grade Pete struggled on the last hard move and success wasn't forthcoming. Pete was convinced it was the hardest 8b in North Wales. Before a trip to the Frankenjura he finally discovered the key beta for the move he was struggling on. It was a heel!! (surprise surprise). He returned to finally complete the 2nd ascent last night. I think Katzy will be satisfied with how long it's held out. A great FA for the little man!
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After all the despair and pain and misery the good lord finally gave me a break yesterday on Walking Mussel. I finally had a breakthrough session and boy did i need it. First redpoint i got the undercut but something was different this time, i felt different and could have done the match. Second redpoint i did the match for the first time. It's a weird sensation when you find yourself a little higher up the route for the first time. You really have to focus and try and keep it together. After the match is another tricky move off a backhand. It always feels a little tricky but it's not that hard really. I was reaching up for the good undercut before the rest when my hand exploded off. Damnnnnn, pretty unlucky. I think it was probably a result of dampness on my fingers from the lower hold. I was over the moon to make progress and got the undercut 2 more times. Once again climbing picks you up when you need it. Instead of wanting to go home and sleep and eat cake i wanted to go home and train! I was buzzing off the endorphins all night. I wish it felt that good every time you went climbing!
After all the despair and pain and misery the good lord finally gave me a break yesterday on Walking Mussel. I finally had a breakthrough session and boy did i need it. First redpoint i got the undercut but something was different this time, i felt different and could have done the match. Second redpoint i did the match for the first time. It's a weird sensation when you find yourself a little higher up the route for the first time. You really have to focus and try and keep it together. After the match is another tricky move off a backhand. It always feels a little tricky but it's not that hard really. I was reaching up for the good undercut before the rest when my hand exploded off. Damnnnnn, pretty unlucky. I think it was probably a result of dampness on my fingers from the lower hold. I was over the moon to make progress and got the undercut 2 more times. Once again climbing picks you up when you need it. Instead of wanting to go home and sleep and eat cake i wanted to go home and train! I was buzzing off the endorphins all night. I wish it felt that good every time you went climbing!
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