BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Friday, 20 March 2009

Round 2

After getting my windscreen fixed i headed to the orme with Bennett. After a quick warm up we headed to Liquid Ambar. The tide was coming in so i abandoned my plan to do the bit i had done alright on and decided to try the first hard boulder passage. I did the move off the crimp to the undercut with the heel first go, good. Then it was the undercut to undercut move- the hardest move on the whole route for me. I kept trying it the Jerry way, but it still seemed unfeasible to slap into the high undercut with those feet. Time to experiment, i flipped my feet round, got a knee scum and toe hook and bingo i could get the undercut slowly. Pulling up on it still felt hard though. Amazing i was happy. The tide wasn't threatening too much so i tried what is probably the redpoint crux the Jerry slap. After a few close goes, i gave it some growl and latched the hold perfectly, i let out shriek of delight. Get in. Back in the Cave later i thought about all the beasts who had tried Liquid but not suceeded- Malc, Nic, Jonny, Mcclure etc... It felt nice to think that with a bit more strength and fitness and work i could be making redpoint attempts on this route. Fingers crossed.
Had a burn on Jack the Drunk after- held the slap but then my foot popped, bastard!

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