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Monday, 2 March 2009


Nothing much to report from my own climbing right now, apart from curling my fingers around bits of wood on manmade overhangs in order to increase strength and body tension. The Mill remains a source of inspiration, i enjoy the fact that i can go in and do a new problem almost every session such is the packed nature of the main board with varied holds. As usual 7a+ is the most frequent grade, these usually go down in a session. Indeed i give every problem i do in a sesh 7a+ regardless of how hard it felt. Nodder and Ian are the other prolific First Ascentionists and between us the place is getting an armoury of good problems. Neil James Mawson came the other day and flashed a load of stuff including a B of mine, better downgrade that one then. I think that the grades are close to Den grades but maybe slightly softer. It doesn't really matter as it is a higher and steeper board than the Den and thus hard to compare. We have a system of 'Mill' grades which works well and thats the important thing. I have been doing a lot more problems on pinches than usual, its nice to see an evolution in my climbing style. Went to do a few routes at Penmaenhead yesterday with Matt and Tommy though and felt well rusty. No surprise there.
Good effort to Ty on ticking 8c in the forest. He nailed Satan i Helvete assis in a sesh (spent two days? on stand). Nice to see that the young man is still progressing and doing the same business in Font that he has done anywhere else.
On a less stratospheric level Ted has ticked everything on the Box now apart from jonny's and drink driving (won't be long i'd say!). I am now starting to fear for my remaining projects. After the crimping machine has done DD he might turn his attention to these!
Peter Robbins has done Broken Heart from Louey, he used my BH sequence, good effort as this is a very insecure way of doing it. It seems Pete doesn't suffer the same groin danger as me. Probably cos he's more felxible that Dhalsim after a yoga sesh.

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