Some of you may well of heard of the enigma that is Jonothon Gaskins, known better as Jonny G. Well this man is a force to be reckoned with in the sport of rock climbing. His achievements although little known on a global scale, have in reality set a new standard in the sport. Look i'm not saying i've been everywhere and seen everything (Big Trouble in Little China Quote- get in!) but one thing i do know is that Johnny's problems (Il Pirata, Walk Away etc..) are of a another level of difficulty to Terremer in Hueco (Jonny jugs!) and From Dirt Grows the Flowers (Jonny Jugs!). These problems just wouldn't be hard to a Johnny in his prime. I want to tell you a little story about the time Johnny rocked up to my spritual home the mighty Pill Box. Chris Davies, no slouch on the boulders himself, had a project up a couple of glassy coins through the main overhang. What transpired that day in 2005 had little effect on the climbing world (probably registered about 0.0001 on the ricter scale) yet it was undoubtedly one of the greatest feats of modern rock climbing. He graded it 8a+/b - an indication of how easy it felt. Still unrepeated and having been tried by some decent crimpers it appears the true difficulty of this line is around the 8b+ mark. Alright i hear you say 8b+ has been done in a sesh before (Daniel Woods this year New Base Line- jonny jugs) but never has such a terrible set of grips been linked by a man in two hours. Not jonnies hardest problem but in my opinion his greatest achievement. Thank you for listening and god bless you all.
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Martin Moser did Dreamtime in a session.
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