BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Sunday, 6 April 2008

Todays Revolution

Today was a significant day in the cave. I realised as soon as i pulled up that conditions were mint. Almost completely boners - excellent! After warming up i tried Halfway House with Dave Buchanan. I got the crimp on trigger and got my leg up - very happy. Then what happened next was to change my life forever. Neil Dyer rang me up to inform me that the day before Pete Robbins had worked out a new sequence on In Life start and had made it to the left wall with the intention of finishing up left wall high. Now this is my ultimate Cave project and i wasn't best pleased to find out someone else was going to do it. So i went down into the shit and started working out the new sequence. I had actually spent a day trying it like this not long ago but couldn't work out how to get into the flake. Well the beta fell thick and fast today. With some heels and heel toe jams i was almost there. It turned out i had found an even easier sequence than Pete. Me and Sorle worked it, i got close, slapping the flake (quite height dependent). So instead of the start being a Font 8a it is now probably a hard 7c, still tricky but a lot less powerful. More my scene. So the race is on and may the best man win (i suspect this will be Pete). Even if he does it i'll still be keen to repeat it. But what of the grades i hear you say? Before In Hell and In Life were an 8a into a tricky 7c. Now i'd say this makes for a pretty spicey 8a+. With the new beta its more like a 7c/+ into a hard 7c. So in my opinion In Hell and In Life are now soft 8a+ and the project is a hard 8a+ (this would have been 8b with the old beta). In Life and In hell are still harder than Cave Life and Pit of (not easy 8as) so probably still warrant 8a+. Whatever the new sequence is really fuckin cool! Will get some pics or vid soon.
In life start the old way (you now take the visible sloper with the other hand):

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